LANEY LA INC
❤️ Click here: Mibra
This takes less time to do but I do not know how well this would work if you did not use flattened wire as tines. The Chromatic Kalimba is also a fairly new instrument.
I checked the book out originally as part of. Then I used a dremel tool with sandpaper Picture 3 to enlarge the hole and make it look neat. Both , owner of the largest collection of drums and ancillary folk instruments in the Americas, and Nigerian drummer argue that the mbira is thoroughly African, being found only in areas populated by Africans or their descendants. This is a basic guide for building a Thumb Piano, or Mbira.
LANEY LA INC - Use the contact form below to inquire about a career with Mbira Technologies. A mbira key produces a rich complex of overtones that varies from one instrument to another depending on its maker's intentions and accidents of fabrication, such that some instruments simply sound better when some notes of a familiar tuning are pushed.
This is a basic guide mibra building a Thumb Piano, or Mbira. They have been made for centuries all over Africa and a few other places and vary a lot in shape, size and sound. The last three steps in this instructable show you how to make some slightly different Mbiras to the one the instructable mibra about. As mibra person living in Southern Africa, I have seen many of these over the years but never personally owned one, so I thought I would give it mibra try to make my own. The effect this has is the pitch of the instrument will be lower and the vibrations and sound will last longer for more pleasing notes. Mibra are quite fun to make and you have quite a bit of freedom in the design, the shape of the box will be the main thing to change to make the instrument look more appealing. You may also add a coat of your choice to it to make it look better and more personalized. I am afraid I cannot really play these yet, only make them so I cannot tell you how to do that, but you will have loads of fun just playing random notes. Experiment with a few designs. The purpose if this guide is not for you to follow specific things like the size of the Mbira or the number of Tines the things you pluck ; but rather to look at the important rules of making one that ensure that it will function, then doing your own project with the details up to you. The Mbira is a basic instrument, but be prepared to spend a long time making yours. To make a decent one you will need about 5 hours. To make a really good one you will need more than 12. The real beauty of this instrument is that I did not need to leave my house to find the materials I needed for it. You can make one out of anything. Sadly I cannot record a video of any of mine being played because I do not have the right equipment for that and I need 2 hands to hold and play it, but here is a video of a similar Hugh Tracey Mbira: This instructable is on the first picture in the Introduction, it is the easiest to make and was my first Mbira ever. The materials you will mibra are: - Spring steel strip I found mine in a scrapyard a few months before I made the instrument I used a windscreen-wiper spring from a car and it worked perfectly. It does not make a big difference,though, and the ideal thickness of the wood for an Mbira of this mibra is about 2~5 mm. It will be used to hold the tines under tension, so it is very important to use strong wire. The tools you will need are: - Pliers - A hammer and anvil or something mibra to an anvil, I do not have one so I used a second hammer. I used a drill to make a few holes, poked the middle part out, then used a rotary dremel with a sandpaper attachment to enlarge the hole once it could fit into the hole made by the drill. Depending on the type of Mbira you make, the materials and tools needed will vary. The box in this simple Mbira is rectangular and easy to get right. It has 6 sides: 2 faces and 4 walls. I used a scrap piece of plywood for the box parts and while it is not a very attractive-looking wood, it still worked well and I was pleased with the result. I have marked the dimensions I used in the first picture, but you may use any dimensions you like. I had to make mine small because the metal I had available for the tines limited the size of the instrument. The shapes are pretty straightforward and easy to achieve, I used a hacksaw and some sandpaper to get them to the desired shape. This hole should be placed just below halfway down on the face, as shown in the first picture. To make this hole, I drilled 8 holes in a circular pattern into the wood, then broke out the wood in the middle. Then I used a dremel tool with sandpaper Picture 3 to mibra the hole and make it look neat. Once you have trimmed mibra pieces to all fit together, place them together and make sure mibra everything looks tidy. Cut 4 small triangles optional, for extra strength and glue them into the corners of the box to hold the walls at 90 degrees to one another. This should make it more difficult to break if the Mbira is dropped. While we wait for the glue to dry, let's make the tines. Mbiras use tines to generate sound vibrations, in mibra same way a guitar uses strings. Each tine produces a different pitched note and they are arranged in this Mbira from lowest in the middle to highest at the sides. This makes the instrument easier to play. This particular one uses 8 tines, however you may choose how many you would like to have. I did not take pictures of the flattening process because it requires two hands, but the basic idea is to put a piece of wire or a spring-steel strip onto mibra anvil or another solid metal object, and strike it with a hammer so that it flattens between the hammer and the metal. In my Mbira I used a strip of spring steel so there was no need to flatten mibra, I just prefer the look of flattened ones. This will make it easier to play for longer without hurting your fingers. The lengths of my 8 tines from left to right were: 45 mm 1 55 mm 2 62 mm 3 58 mm 4 60 mm 5 56 mm 6 52 mm 7 46 mm 8 The tines are mounted with a different length sticking out of the top for each one, so that allows tines of the same length to generate different sounds. Take note of the placement of the tines in the other steps. This Mbira requires a thin metal sheet on either side of the wood where the wire will be threaded through, to make it stronger so that the wire does not break the wood when tightened. The faceplate assembly consists of: - 2 thin 1mm rectangular metal sheets mibra and backplate - A piece of 2mm dia. One of them needs to look nice, that is the faceplate. The other can look rough since it will never be visible, it is called the backplate. Place your frontplate in the desired position on the Mbira. Use my pictures for reference of where that should be. Then mark with a pen or pencil, holes in the places shown. Use a very small drillbit mibra drill the holes through. Drill through the faceplate and the wooden front face at the same time, so that the holes match up well. Mibra hold the backplate under the frontplate and do the same thing. This is much easier than measuring every time. If you use a nail for the top tine holder, like I did, then clip the head of the nail off with a hammer and some pliers. It can stick out of the sides like mine to prevent it from falling out of the wires that will hold it. You may also bend the ends if you use a thinner nail, to achieve the same. Cut 4 pieces of thin binding wire. Mine were about 4,5 cm long each. Place the backplate on the mibra side of the face. Once this is done, it should look like pictures 3 and 4. Next you will need to mibra another set of holes, this time to hold the tensioning tube over the tines. I drilled 10 holes to fit wire between the tines and another hole at each end of the tube. See the last picture for more detail. Next we will fit the tines, then the tube goes on top of them to create tension in them. Take careful note of the placement of them in the first picture. This allows them to vibrate properly. Once they are loose on top of the faceplate, thread a long piece of wire through the tube. Mine was about 18 cm long bend the two ends of this wire down and push it through the two outer-most holes in the faceplate. Then, start with the other holes you made. Put them through the holes as shown in the completed front face above. This tension is what allows the instrument to function. If a key is loose, twist the wire closest to is a bit more at the back, this will pull the tube closer to it. Once the tines are all in place and firmly held there, you may glue the front face onto the rest of the resonator box. Now have fun for the next few days playing with your new creation. This was something I made for my girlfriend, to be used as an earring or necklace piece, but is also a playable musical instrument. I flattened some pins for tines and used balsa wood for the frame. Completed, the resonator box measures 3 X 3 cm. This one was original intended to be a traditional Zimbabwean Shona Mbira, but I did not have the right equipment to temper the thick wire and make the larger tines, so I used the 9 lightest ones and put them on a resonator box. I moved the hole from the front face to the top of mibra instrument, and made it possible to fit the top of a Mibra Cola bottle inside, to amplify the sound made. This was just an idea I had and I think it turned out to work pretty well. This takes less time to do but I do not know how well this would work if you did not use flattened wire as tines. To make it look a little more interesting, I decided to burn the back face with a magnifying glass. Mibra is simple and fast, but hard to get neat. First lightly draw a pencil outline of what you want to burn into the wood, then follow it to burn the shapes into the outer layer of wood. This is the Mbira of which I am most proud, it took me over 15 hours to make mibra it turned out awesome. I made it as a surprise gift for my girlfriend, she mibra Mbira music so I wanted to make her a one-off special Mbira unlike any mibra in the world. I used a better wood than ply, I think it make have been cherry but I am not sure. This one also uses wire to hold the tines directly to the faceplate, and the tines were made from mibra wire coat hanger flattened with a hammer. There are many pictures in this step to help mibra if you got stuck at any point in the construction of your own Mbira. This one has a large resonance chamber and is therefore louder than the others. Around the heart-shaped hole on the front face are some mibra tribal flame swirls, Mibra drew those on lightly in pencil before using a soldering iron to carefully burn the shape into the wood. This just makes the front face look a little more intriguing and interesting. I also added in a larger stainless steel frontplate to make it look more uniform, as well as making the 7 tines form a heart shape and shaping the resonator box vaguely like a heart too. On the back face, I also used a soldering iron to burn the wood. Here I first drew a Jasmin mibra on paper, then after I was happy with that, redrew it onto the back face, then used the soldering iron to shade it in. I had to redo it a couple times because you need to do everything in a circular motion so as to avoid black dots being burnt in from stopping. May I make a small suggestion. Instead of having to wire the entire plate down, why not use industrial contact cement. That way the only part needed to be wired are the tangs and bars. Even then, the bars can also be soft welded in place, so mibra, no need for all the wiring. Then only the tangs need that so they can be also tuned: I think less wire will also add to the tone on mibra lid part of the box. Also, try a better glue, and good exterior wood glue holds much better and will last longer after all that hard work: I love this and am going to try a larger creation in clay, the voice box then add the tangs etc. The tuning also plays a role on the atmosphere of how you might think the correct way to play it is. What do you mean, how to play it. Do you mean holding it, tuning it I tune mine by ear, so its intuitive, which I prefer over concert scale tuning or simply holding it. For many years, I have used steel leaf rake tines. I usually get them free from neighbors, mibra or very cheap at garage sales, or find them driving around on trash pick-up day. The tines are spring steel and their width is perfect for a thumb piano. And depending on the notes I need, I can cut 2 or 3 from one tine. These rake tines are pretty tough - a hacksaw works, but mibra. Much better is a hand grinder with a cutoff wheel. Be sure to smooth over any burrs or rough spots so you don't tear up your thumbs.
Mix - Samurai & Junk cu Dj Grigo - Mibra
Commercially produced mbiras were exported from South Africa by ethnomusicologist from the 1950s onward, popularizing the instrument outside Africa. Za ogled potrebujete Javascript, da si jo ogledate. The Miba Sinter Group produces a wide variety of components related to the body, chassis, pumps and e-drive. The mbira nyunga nyunga is similar in construction to the mbira dzavadzimu, but has no hole in the soundboard. Za ogled potrebujete Javascript, da si jo ogledate. But the Maraire number notation has remained the internationally accepted system Chirimumimba, 2007. There are a few different makers of the chromatic kalimba. A Zimbabwean mbira dza vadzimu Various kinds of plucked idiophones and lamellaphones have existed in Africa for thousands of years.